Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy — a century-old culinary gem that once hosted Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Indira Gandhi — is facing closure after nearly 99 years of service in London. The Crown Estate, which owns the property, plans to convert its historic Regent Street site into office space, triggering outrage across Britain’s hospitality community.
Founded in 1926, Veeraswamy restaurant is more than just a dining establishment; it is a living piece of history that connects Britain’s colonial past with its modern multicultural identity. Its closure has prompted leading chefs and cultural figures to demand that the Crown Estate reconsider its redevelopment plans to protect what many are calling a “national culinary treasure.”
Britain’s Oldest Indian Veeraswamy restaurant Faces Uncertain Future
Located in the heart of London’s West End, Veeraswamy has long stood as a symbol of cross-cultural exchange between India and the UK. Its rich history and opulent décor have attracted royalty, celebrities, and political leaders from across the world. Yet, despite its legacy, Veeraswamy’s future now hangs in the balance after the Crown Estate informed the restaurant’s owner, MW Eat, that its lease would not be renewed.
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The Crown Estate intends to transform the restaurant’s ground floor into a reception area for office tenants occupying the upper floors of the building. MW Eat, the company behind Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary, and Amaya, has described the move as a “shock decision” that threatens nearly a century of culinary heritage.
“We were blindsided,” said Ranjit Mathrani, 81, Veeraswamy’s current owner. “Only a year ago, we were invited to expand our presence in the building. Now we’re being asked to leave.”
Top British Chefs Join Hands to Save Veeraswamy
In a rare show of unity, Britain’s most respected chefs have rallied together to appeal for Veeraswamy’s preservation. In an open letter to The Times, culinary legends Raymond Blanc, Michel Roux Jr, and Michael Caines called the Crown Estate’s decision “sacrilege.” They urged meaningful dialogue to keep the restaurant in its “rightful home” at Victory House on Regent Street.
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The letter, signed by other notable chefs including Richard Corrigan, Cyrus Todiwala, Anthony Demetre, Tom Aikens, Phil Howard, and Ben Murphy, emphasized that “heritage cannot be relocated, nor can history be replaced.”
“Keeping Veeraswamy alive is an act of responsibility by the Crown worthy of London’s reputation as one of the world’s great dining and tourist cities,” the chefs wrote. “Its loss would be a profound blow to the city’s culinary and cultural heritage.”
The Crown Estate Responds: “We’re Offering Support”
The Crown Estate, which manages properties on behalf of the British monarchy, defended its decision by citing the need to modernize the building. A spokesperson stated that the refurbishment aims to meet modern environmental and safety standards, ensuring that the property remains in use for future generations.
However, the Crown Estate also emphasized that it is working with MW Eat to find a solution. “We understand how challenging this is for the owners. Our focus remains on working with all parties and includes offering to help find new premises in the West End, as well as providing financial compensation,” said the statement quoted by The Times.
Still, many argue that relocating Veeraswamy would strip the restaurant of its identity. The venue’s charm lies not just in its recipes or staff, but in the century-old ambiance that blends Mughal design with British refinement — a physical testament to India’s enduring influence on British culture.
Veeraswamy’s Rich and Royal Legacy
Founded by Edward Palmer in 1926, the restaurant has a lineage as fascinating as its menu. Palmer, the great-grandson of General William Palmer — Private and Military Secretary to Warren Hastings, India’s first Governor-General — and Faiz-un-Nisa Begum, a Mughal princess, envisioned the restaurant as a space to educate the British public about authentic Indian cuisine.
Over the years, Veeraswamy became synonymous with elegance and prestige. Its walls have witnessed the laughter and conversations of global icons including Charlie Chaplin, Princess Anne, and King Abdullah of Jordan. During India’s independence movement, the restaurant also became a discreet meeting point for Indian leaders such as Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru.
In 1934, Veeraswamy was purchased by Sir William Steward, a Member of Parliament known for his passion for Indian food. Steward reportedly traveled more than 200,000 miles across India and neighboring countries collecting recipes, décor, and culinary techniques to perfect the restaurant’s authenticity. Under his ownership, Veeraswamy became a favorite among diplomats and movie stars alike.
A Living Museum of Indian Culinary Heritage
Unlike most modern Indian restaurants in London, Veeraswamy offers a nostalgic journey into India’s royal kitchens. Its interiors feature chandeliers, Mughal-inspired motifs, and antique artworks depicting scenes from Indian history. The menu fuses classic North Indian flavors with regional delicacies from across the subcontinent.
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“Every dish tells a story,” says Mathrani. “For nearly a hundred years, Veeraswamy has introduced Londoners to the depth and diversity of Indian cuisine.”
The restaurant’s cultural significance is so deep that it was once listed among the Michelin Guide’s top dining experiences in London. In 2016, it earned a Michelin star, cementing its reputation as a culinary landmark that bridged two worlds.
Public Outcry and Legal Battle Looming
With Veeraswamy’s lease set to expire in June next year, the matter will soon be taken to court. A hearing expected in spring or early summer will determine whether MW Eat can extend its tenancy for another 14 years under protected tenancy laws.
If the ruling goes against them, Veeraswamy may have no choice but to shut its doors — an outcome that many believe would mark the end of an era for London’s restaurant scene. Tourism experts also warn that the closure could affect the city’s culinary tourism, as visitors from around the world often include a meal at Veeraswamy in their itineraries.
“For generations, Veeraswamy has been a bridge between Britain and India,” said Cyrus Todiwala, one of the signatories of the open letter. “Its closure would be like losing a chapter of London’s history.”
What’s at Stake: More Than Just a Restaurant
Supporters argue that this isn’t merely a business issue but a matter of preserving Britain’s multicultural heritage. Veeraswamy stands as a reminder of how Indian immigrants and entrepreneurs have shaped British society. Its loss would be symbolic of a broader erasure of immigrant contributions to the UK’s identity.
Heritage campaigners have urged the Crown Estate to consider alternative solutions, such as granting the restaurant heritage status or allowing it to remain alongside the planned office spaces. The campaign has gained significant traction on social media, with hashtags like #SaveVeeraswamy trending across platforms.
Conclusion: A Plea for Preservation
As the legal and public debates unfold, one thing remains clear — Veeraswamy is more than just a restaurant. It is a bridge between two cultures, a symbol of culinary diplomacy, and a living monument to the shared history of India and Britain. Shutting its doors would not only end a chapter in London’s dining scene but would also erase an invaluable cultural legacy.
For now, supporters continue to rally, hoping that the Crown Estate will reconsider its decision. Whether through legal intervention or public pressure, the campaign to save Veeraswamy underscores a vital message: some landmarks deserve to be preserved, not replaced.
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